Introducing Clifton GMT from Baume & Mercier

Posted on May 24, 2013 by Roberta Naas
Baume & Mercier Clifton GMT -- vintage inspired for today's traveler

Baume & Mercier Clifton GMT — vintage inspired for today’s traveler

For the busy traveler who wants time in two zones at his fingertips, Baume & Mercier answers the demand – and does so in style.  The Swiss watch brand with 183 years of history and tradition, unveils the retro-styled Clifton GMT. Two styles are being released of the 43mm brushed satin-finished steel watch. One features a silvery dial, whiel the other is an anthracite dial with sun satin finish.

The Clifton GMT houses an auatomtic mechanical movement – the ETA 2893-3 – and features second timezone indication via 24-hour  slim hand with red dot at the end that revolves aroud teh dial once every 24 hours.  Date is indicated via an aperture at 3:00. The domed sapphire crystal of the watch is anti-reflective and the watch is fitted with a sapphire case back to view the movement.  The anthracite dialed watch is offered on a maroon strap, while the silver dial watch – with red accents and 24 hour indications – features a classic black strap. The all new GMT Clifton watches retail for an amazing $3,300.

Baume & Mercier's Clifton with dual time zone indication via 24-hour hand

Baume & Mercier’s Clifton with dual time zone indication via 24-hour hand

Inspired by a 1950’s vintage timepiece from the brand’s archives, the Clifton collection of watches was first released earlier this year and offers a clean, retro dial design in a contemporary interpretation.  Other timepieces in the line include two 41mm auatomtic watches (with three hands) and a manual wind (LaJoux-Perret 7381) 42mm piece in 18-karat rose gold. What makes this series so special is the incredible retail price –ranging from $2,700 to $6,300.

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Tutima Celebrates Heritage – Fliegers, NATOs, Saxon One and Patria

Posted on May 23, 2013 by Roberta Naas
The new Tutima Grand Flieger and M-2 watches.

The new Tutima Grand Flieger and M-2 watches.

Tutima is a prime example of a small family owned business that has taken firm hold of its roots and quietly and consistently moved full steam ahead. This German brand has long been associated with pilot’s watches (almost since its 1927 inception) — building strong and reliable instruments for decades.  A couple of years ago, the brand announced intentions to build   all new workshops in Glashutte — their original roots in the pre-Berlin Wall days.  The brand also announced its foray into upper echelon watchmaking – revealing at last year’s BaselWorld its first minute repeater.

Tutima fans held their collective breath – for almost a year. Would this brand so entrenched in the world of pilot watches abandon its codes and move strictly in to the realm of haute horlogerie? Would this brand forget its loyal followers? Marketing of products from Tutima was quiet, while the celebration of its   state-of-the-art facilities was expansive – and rightly so. The Tutima Manufacture is a wonderful progression for the brand – and, as witnessed at this year’s BaselWorld, for the brand’s fans, as well.

The bold and rugged M-2 watchs from Tutima

The bold and rugged M-2 watchs from Tutima

This year, Tutima unveils its newest chapter in life and time – unveiling four collections that are extremely focused on the brands German heritage and sporty roots.  Among its newest “Made in Glashutte” lines: the next generation of the Grand Flieger; the new M-2 series; the Saxon One; Patria. Each line is completely made in house in Glashutte, and utilizes a variety of new in-house movements, including the T321 chronograph and the T330 three-hand automatic.

The Saxon One from Tutima

The Saxon One from Tutima

The Grand Flieger has been totally redesigned and is a remarkable new rendition of a 1940’s piece. Water resistant to 200 meters, it is available as a three-hand automatic with date (at about $2,300), or as a chronograph at $5,600. The 43mm line includes the Airport and the UTC versions. The M-2 represents a new generation of NATO chronographs crafted in titanium with the flight hand that we so love, integrated pushbuttons and screw-down caseback to protect it from shock. The 46-1/2mm case is water resistant to 300 meters, and the watch house the new Tutima Caliber 321; it retails for between $6,900 and $7,800. The Saxon One collection represents the brand’s fresh start emerging from the Glashutte workshops, with prices of these 44mm sporty elegant steel watches ranging from $4,500 for a three-hand automatic to $8,000 for the chronograph.

Tutima's new Patria collecion

Tutima’s new Patria collecion

The new Patria (which translates to “homeland”) houses the manually wound T617 caliber and takes its design inspiration from the Minute Repeater. Two versions are offered: a Small Seconds; Dual Time. Reserved, elegant and sophisticated, the watch is offered in 18-karat rose gold with a meticulously finished movement with three-quarter plate. The retail here is about $19,000. Of course, the alluring minute repeater remains in the line – retailing for $244,000 in rose gold and $258,000 in platinum.

So, the answer is – Tutima did not abandon followers – instead it polished, revamped and reenergized – with an entire collection worthy of old fans and new collectors. Bravo.

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Hublot LaFerrari – Is the Verdict In?

Posted on May 22, 2013 by Roberta Naas
Hublot LaFerrari with 50 days power reserve and suspended tourbillon

Hublot LaFerrari with 50 days power reserve and suspended tourbillon

While in BaselWorld, we posted on our facebook pages about the new Hublot LaFerrari watch – created to celebrate the partnership between Hublot and the sleek and stealth Ferrari brand.  As those who love cars and watches know, the Ferrari brand has partnered with other watch brands before Hublot: Girard-Perregaux and Panerai are among them.

Hours and minutes read off of cylinders on the right, and power reserve read off of cylinders on the left.

Hours and minutes read off of cylinders on the right, and power reserve read off of cylinders on the left.

However, the relationship with Hublot may have been made with the idea in mind by both parties to create as something bold and uniquely different.  The LaFerrari being the first example therein – created with input from both the car and watch sides. The question is, does it deliver what car and watch lovers want?

Down the center of the watch lie 11 spring barrels -- lined up like a crankshaft.

Down the center of the watch lie 11 spring barrels — lined up like a crankshaft.

The new watch features a bold case shape that is designed to emulate the look of the stealth car. The materials used are high-tech, as is the technology.  This watch holds a thus-far world record in the power reserve field. It offers a massive 50 days of power reserve — not 50 hours like many watches – 50 days. Thus, one can wear this watch for just over a month and a half without having to wind it. The indication of power reserve is visible on a cylindrical readout.

THe complex caliber seen from the case back.

THe complex caliber seen from the case back.

The complex movement, which contains 637 pieces, includes 11 spring barrels lined up in the   center of the watch and resembling a crank shaft – underscoring the automotive motif.  With a full sapphire crystal, much of the movement is visible to the eye. Time (hour and minutes) is displayed on cylinders opposite the power reserve readout. The watch – which also houses a large 14.5mm flying tourbillon escapement – offers seconds on an aluminum cylinder attached to the tourbillon cage.

Ferrari-LaFerrari -- inspiration for the watch.

Ferrari-LaFerrari — inspiration for the watch.

So, is the verdict in now?  Is this what you expected from Hublot genius Jean-Claude Biver?  Is this the new generation of Ferrari that everyone was waiting for? It should be noted that this world-first watch (remember 50 days of power reserve) – created in a limited edition of 50 pieces – retails for $345,000 – certainly much less that the million-dollar car, but still a hefty figure.

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Exclusive Interview with Thierry Stern, Worldwide President, Patek Philippe

Posted on May 21, 2013 by Roberta Naas
Thierry Stern, President, Patek Philippe worldwide

Thierry Stern, President, Patek Philippe worldwide

Thierry Stern, fourth generation to lead the Patek Philippe watch brand, is at once genuine in his passion for watches and sincere in his oath to continually strive to be the best. In an exclusive interview in Beverly Hills a few days ago with this global president of what is the benchmark gold standard in Swiss watch brands, Thierry Stern admitted that the brand is not perfect – but insists this is the reason they continue to innovate.

“We are not perfect; we make mechanical watches. Sometimes a tiny little something can go wrong,” says Thierry Stern, who is quick to note that the rate of  returns for service for the brand are in the couple of percentile vs. the industry norm of about 10 to 15 percent. “We do all we can do to make each watch as exactly and precisely as possible so that it can be passed on for generations.”

Two Patek Philippe minute repeaters.

Two Patek Philippe minute repeaters.

Indeed, at the event where we had our exclusive interview (see the story here), Patek Philippe was gathering an incredible number of minute repeaters together in one room, and also bringing dozens of chronographs and historical pieces for collectors and retailers to view.  The question, “Why bother to go to all this effort and expense when you are Patek Philippe and everyone knows you are good?” was never asked because Stern circumvented it right off the bat.

“This is the first-ever such event we are doing in the United States,” says Stern (noting that another will take place next month in New York). “It is rare to have so many important pieces together in the US, but we need to do it because there are other good brands out there and it is important to show the customers that you are active and always there for them. You can’t just take your position for granted; you have to work for it.”

A view of a Patek Philippe minute repeater movement through the caseback.

A view of a Patek Philippe minute repeater movement through the caseback.

Work is something that the Stern family enjoys and Thierry says he particularly loves his role as keeper of the sound in the brand’s minute repeaters. Each time a minute repeater is completed by a watchmaker (who has had 15 years of training before he can even work on a minute repeater), it is brought to Thierry Stern to listen to and affix his personal stamp of approval. One that is not given lightly.

“Of five watches, I usually reject one – mostly because it can be improved upon. The sound can be louder, stronger, richer or more

A superb rendition of a women's Patek Philippe minute repeater.

A superb rendition of a women’s Patek Philippe minute repeater.

harmonious. When a customer is willing to spend $300,000 to $700,000 on a watch it has to be as close to perfect as possible,” says Stern, who spent years in his youth with the company listening to repeaters when his father was at the helm. “If we can’t get it right, then we have to melt down the case and start again. It is sad, but it happens. Sometimes it is just some flaw in the case.”

Thierry Stern also shared with us his views on chronographs and on the challenges of the watch industry today. Stay tuned for future posts.

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Patek Philippe Unveils Minute Repeaters in Newly Built Acoustical Cylinder

Posted on May 20, 2013 by Roberta Naas

Just a few days ago in Los Angeles, Patek Philippe brought together more than 150 top watch retailers and watch collectors at one of the nation’s most luxurious private mansions to showcase an exhibit of chronographs and minute repeaters.

Historical Museum pieces were brought in by the brand

Historical Museum pieces were brought in by the brand

In a stand-alone exhibit space in the gardens of the mansion, Patek Philippe displayed not only dozens of current chronographs, but also historical museum pocket watches and wristwatches that were brought in especially for the event, and that rarely travel outside of Geneva. Additionally, watchmakers were on hand to enable collectors (and a very few select journalists) to interact with the timepieces.

Three Patek Philippe minute repeaters

Three Patek Philippe minute repeaters

Even more exciting, however, was the cylindrically shaped, acoustically inspired building that was created expressly for the display of the minute repeaters — perhaps the first such comprehensive display of Patek Philippe Minute Repeaters seen in the US market yet.  Nearly a dozen top minute repeaters were displayed in this room, where their sound was enhanced thanks to the cylinder’s construction – designed to maximize the resonance of the chimes.

The gardens of the mansion, where the event took place.

The gardens of the mansion, where the event took place.

The event began with a welcome speech from Larry Pettinelli, Patek Philippe US President, followed by an introduction to the collection by Thierry Stern,President of Patek Philippe worldwide. Following a short film that outlined the company’s long history as a family owned entity with passionate leaders and the ability to always strive for innovation and perfection, guests were free throughout dinner to visit the exhibitions.

Inside the chronograph room, informative films looped, along side product displays.

Inside the chronograph room, informative films looped, along side product displays.

We here at ATimelyPerpsective.com were also fortunate enough to secure a private interview with Thierry Stern. “It is not easy to build an event like this and to bring all the minute repeaters and museum pieces over from Switzerland,” says Stern. “But the US is still our biggest collector market, and it is important to bring them such a large grouping of special pieces to experience first hand.”

Stay tuned for a complete interview with Thierry Stern, airing tomorrow.

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