Earlier this year at Baselworld 2018, Swiss watch brand Carl F. Bucherer made a powerful statement about the brand’s watchmaking prowess when it unveiled the unique Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral watch with two patients (one still pending) and a superb design that allows for optimum viewing to the large-sized tourbillon. Powered by the in-house-made CFB T3000 unique movement developed and designed by the Manufacture, the watch is the world’s first to combine a peripheral automatic winding system and a peripherally mounted tourbillon. In fact with the peripheral mounting, the tourbillon seems to float in space much like a mystery tourbillon.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral watch is the evolution of the brand’s earlier Manero Peripheral watch with peripheral automatic winding system that was first introduced in series production by the brand in 2008. The new Tourbillon DoublePeripheral watch, however, goes several steps further — introducing not only the peripherally mounted flying tourbillon, but also a stop-seconds function of the tourbillon. Additionally, the movement is a COSC-certified chronometer.
The engineers and watchmakers of Lucerne-based Carl F. Bucherer spent several years developing the new CFB T3000 caliber that is a technical blend of mechanics, technology, and top-notch craftsmanship. The flying tourbillon is visible not just from above, but also from below — through the sapphire crystals. Thanks to the fact that the master engineers and watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer developed a tourbillon cage that is supported peripherally by three ceramic ball bearings that ensure a stable connection, the uninhibited view of the constantly rotating cage is one of the best on the market — a mesmerizing dance of mechanics floating in space. By placing the one-minute tourbillon cage at 12:00, the brand accomplishes a bold yet alluring look.
Carl F. Bucherer also uses state-of-the-art silicon technology for the escapement, which has a pallet and escape wheel made from the low-friction, high-tech material. In addition to optimizing power reserve — with 65 hours of reserve — the silicon escape wheel and pallet render the watch impervious to magnetic fields. Thanks to the unusual stop-seconds function, the wearer can precisely synchronize the watch without affecting precision. Naturally, the master artisans at Carl F. Bucherer have meticulously finished the enter movement, turing to the classic Geneva stripes on the movement’s bridge, which can easily be viewed via the sapphire crystal case back. The watch is housed in a 45mm case made in 18-karate rose gold. It features a convex silver colored dial with applied gold-plated wedge-shaped indices and faceted gold-plated lancet hands. Finished with a Louisiana alligator strap, the watch retails for $68,000.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral watch is — simply put — exquisite. Not only is it a technical marvel, but also it looks superb. The 43mm case size is not too large at all because the openness of the tourbillon draws one’s eye to it and the case size seems to generously support that bold yet beautiful look. Additionally, the fact that this watch has a patent on the peripheral rotor, and a patent pending on the tourbillon, and is COSC-certified chronometer, I think it demonstrates top-notch watchmaking prowess worthy of attention.
Technical Specs: Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral
Reference number: 00.10920.03.13.01
Movement: Automatic, CFB T3000 manufacture caliber, COSC-certified chronometer, diame- ter 36.5 mm, movement height 4.60 mm, total height on tourbillon 6.66 mm, 32 jewels, power reserve of at least 65 hours
Functions: Tourbillon, hour, minute, small seconds, stop-seconds function
Case: 18 k rose gold, convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire-crystal case back, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 43.1 mm, height 11.57 mm
Dial: Silver-colored with appliquéd rose-gold-plated indices
Strap: Hand-stitched Louisiana alligator leather in dark brown, folding pin buckle in 18 k rose gold
Rotor patent: Automatic winding mechanism with peripherally suspended rotor ring that is mounted with three ceramic ball bearings on its inner circumference. The three ball bearings are mounted on springs and act as a shock absorber. In contrast to centrally mounted rotors, the peripheral rotor ensures an unhindered view of the movement and allows for the watch’s flat design.
Tourbillon patent: (pending) * Tourbillon with peripherally mounted rotating carriage. With the tourbillon of Carl F. Bucherer, the mounting of the carriage is ensured by three ceramic ball bearings, which support and guide the bearing wheel at its circumference. These can be adjusted by an eccentric mechanism in order to optimally set the clearance. In comparison to conventional tourbillons, this construction allows for a lower height and an unhindered view of the rotating carriage from both sides.