By Nancy Olson
I am a fan of gender-neutral watches, and NOMOS Glashütte timepieces are particular favorites of mine. With minimalist case and dial designs and a healthy dose of Bauhaus, most of the German brand’s timepieces look equally smashing on either a male or a female wrist.
The just-introduced Tangente neomatik platinum gray is no exception. With its sleek steel case (in two sizes) and precise dial typography, it fits securely within the NOMOS range of easy-to-wear classic watches for men and women, moving seamlessly from day to night, work to play.
All of the timepieces within the NOMOS model families are notably kindred, but when I think of NOMOS, it’s the Tangente that comes to my mind. It was an early success in the company’s ongoing narrative, and in some ways it set the aesthetic bar for the watches that would follow.
Launched in 1992, the Tangente was part of the brand’s first collection, which also included the Orion, Tetra and Ludwig. It stood out as the most classically Bauhaus among the group, favoring the first Bauhaus watches from the 1930s. And if great design is indeed timeless, it’s no wonder it remains an important part of the NOMOS body of work.
Numerous iterations have been introduced over the years, each exhibiting important tweaks in size, details and functions that contribute to the Tangente’s uninterrupted relevance. Some judicious use of color on straps and dials also varied its look, lending freshness and a classic fashion sensibility.
Nomos Tangente Neomatic Platinum Gray
Available in 35mm and 39mm, the new Tangente neomatic platinum gray
derives its name from its galvanized rhodium-plated dial, which grants a striking—and super trendy—gray hue. The polished round case accentuates the dial décor, while offering just enough contrast.
Slim rhodium-plated hands traverse the dial, which has anthracite gray Roman numerals at 12, 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock. The remaining hours are marked by simple indices, and the small seconds subdial is at 6 o’clock. The only deviation in tone is the word “neomatik,” situated just below the NOMOS logo at 12 o’clock, displayed in gold.
There are two versions in each size, one with a solid case back and the other with an exhibition back. The solid case back is suitable for engraving, and it can accommodate up to 88 characters, according to NOMOS. The see-through case back offers a view of the movement and its bi-directional rotor.
Nomos DUW 3001 Caliber
Introduced in 2015, the DUW 3001 is the company’s tenth in-house caliber, exclusive to the neomatik (new automatic) series, and it comprises the NOMOS swing system, the in-house escapement that debuted in 2014. The original Tangente was manually wound.
The 27-jewel movement’s slim profile measures just 3.2mm in height, and true to its German watchmaking heritage, it features the Glashütte three-quarter plate. It has a tempered blue balance spring and blued screws, with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS perlage decorating its rhodium-plated surfaces. The DUW 3001 has a power reserve of up to 43 hours.
The Tangente neomatic platinum gray collection ranges in price from $3,070 for the 37mm model with a solid case back to $3,780 for the 39mm model with a sapphire exhibition case back. Each is fitted on a remborde-style strap crafted from Horween shell cordovan.