There has been a lot of talk in the industry of late about how expensive and in-demand stainless steel sport watches are, especially from the big-name brands like Patek Philippe, or Rolex. Much of that has to do with exclusivity and limited production numbers, and some has to do with the fact that during the non-traveling 18 months of Covid-19, most collectors (of everything from coins to watches and whiskey) indulged. Now, though, lovers of the Patek Philippe Chronographs ins stainless steel have something to fight over: the Patek Philippe Ref. 5905/1A-001 Flyback Chronograph with Annual calendar.
Joining an existing platinum with blue dial and rose gold with brown dial version, the new Ref. 5905/1A-001 self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar will definitely have consumers clamoring. It is crafted in incredibly trendy stainless steel with an integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial. This marks a first for this watch in stainless steel, a material Patek Philippe doesn’t use often. The combination of green dial, steel case and integrated bracelet make this watch a sure-fire hit.
The movement offers day, date, month apertures and a day/night indication. It is powered by a vertical disk-type clutch and the patented Annual Calendar automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months, needing a single adjustment annually on March 1 because of the short month of February. The retail price of this watch is a cool $59,104 — indicative of the high prices of steel watches.
Other New Patek Philippe Chronographs In Rose Gold and Platinum
Of course Patek Philippe also introduces a couple of other new chronograph references, including the Ref. 5204R-011 Split Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar and the Ref. 5930P-001 World Time Flyback Chronograph. Each of these watches represents the brand’s exemplary work with complications, and each has something very special about it.
Each follows on the heels of invention from the brand’s master watchmakers since they embarked on a mission to create chronograph complications in 2005 when it released the world’s thinnest split-seconds chronograph caliber CHR 27-525 PS. Since then, Patek Philippe has released 20 different caliber variations made in house, including an automatic winding flyback chronograph, an annual calendar and chronograph combination and a world-timer chronograph, as well as a ladies chronograph and others.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5204R-011 Split Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar
Now, the newest Ref. 5204R-011 Split Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar is crafted in 18-karat rose gold with a slate gray dial and is designed to offer a more contemporary flair. This reference 5204 has long been one of the most sought-after grand complications from Patek Philippe thanks to the complex caliber and sophisticated architecture. The harmoniously balanced dial offers all of the perpetual calendar and chronograph indications via in-line apertures, subsidiary dials and hands.
The watch features a transparent sapphire caseback that gives the wearer a nice view of the caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q, first introduced in 2012 on Reference 5204P-001. This manual-winding movement boasts two column wheels, and a horizontal clutch and is combined with seven patented innovations. It retails for an incredible $309,893.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5930P-001 World Time Flyback Chronograph
Inspired by a 1940’s one-off watch, the Ref. 5930P was first introduced to the world in 2016 in a white gold model with striking blue dial. The world time flyback chronograph became an instant sensation, garnering a cult-like following and today is one of the most sought-after world time watches on the market. The newest version is a step up, crafted in platinum with a bold green dial and green strap.
The center green dial is beautifully hand-guilloched with a circular pattern and the main 24 cities of the world are etched in green on the corresponding disk. The platinum case is entirely polished by hand, no easy feat for this hard material. Powered by the caliber CH 28-520 HU, equipped with a column wheel and vertical clutch, the watch boasts a central seconds chronograph that can be used for the running seconds and count-down timer. It retails for $100,538.
(Portions of this article by Roberta Naas first appeared on her column on Forbes.com.)