Inspired by the Earth’s natural satellite, the moon, H. Moser & Cie pays homage to our lunar neighbor by releasing the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept. The piece is one of the most accurate moon phases to hit the market with only one day’s deviation every 1027 years — a testament to the manufacturer’s technical prowess. Even more important, though, is the fact that this watch features one of the blackest black dials in the world thanks to its use of Vantablack — the darkest absorption substance known to man.
The rich black color of the dial on the stainless steel watch was inspired by the black void of space and by the super massive black holes that sits at the center of and help anchor galaxies together. Vantablack — used for some of the world’s most advanced telescopes to mitigate stray light from interfering with interstellar readings as well as by the army for thermal camouflage — absorbs 99.965% of radiation from the visible spectrum. It is ‘grown’ on a substrate using a modified chemical vapor deposition process, CVD. When light strikes the compound, instead of reflecting the light, the light becomes trapped and is continually deflecting in the cubes eventually dissipating into heat. Vantablack is not new to watchmaking (having been used by Panerai and MCT) but it is incredibly rare to find.
The 5N 18-karat rose gold version features a midnight blue fume dial and is inspired by the twilight created when the sun crests over a celestial body. The Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept watch is a minimalist’s dream come true. A quick glance at the dial, and the elegance and subtly of the aesthetic are clear. Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, a second hand and the moonphase complication are the only features that adorn the dial. The face is devoid of any hour or minute indicators. Even the company name is absent from the dial and in that a sense the color of the dial fills the void. (A note to those not as familiar with affordably priced watches, the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept watch, with its minimalist look, could be a bit reminiscent of the Movado Museum dial watch. Still, this is no deterrent to the beauty of the piece.)
As elegant at the watch is, the mechanical underpinnings are just as impressive. The Endeavor Perpetual Moon Concept watch is powered by the HMC 801 hand wound Manufacture calibre movement, equipped with an interchangeable Moser escapement. The movement, when fully charged, provides a 7 day power reserve with power reserve indicator found on the reverse side of the piece. As stated in the beginning of the article, the accuracy of the moonphase is astonishing and only needs to be calibrated once every 1027 years. Beyond the accuracy, the piece is user friendly and does not encumber the user with an overly complicated interface. The moonphase can be set, read and predicted to the minute and is adjusted via a push button on the side of the case. The mechanisms driving the moonphase complication closely track the moon’s orbital duration of 29.53059 days which translates to 29 days 12 hours 44 minutes and 2.9 seconds. The accuracy of the piece is down to a mere .23 seconds of variation per day, which is the adjustment that would occur on the 1027.30 year of wearing the piece. This is the most precise moonphase complication available at the time of this writing on the market.
The Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept watch is incredibly elegant. The beauty of the dial is only matched by the technical firepower of the movement powering the piece. Unfortunately, just 50 pieces will be produced of each model. The price of the stainless steel version with Vantablack dial is $35,000.
H. Moser & Cie ENDEAVOUR PERPETUAL MOON CONCEPT Tech Specs
Reference 1801-1200, steel model, Vantablack® dial, black leather strap, limited edition of 50 pieces Reference 1801-0400, 5N red gold model, midnight-blue fumé dial, brown alligator leather strap, limited edition of 50 pieces
Steel or 18-carat 5N red gold Diameter: 42.0 mm, height: 12.9 mm Sapphire crystal
Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
Vantablack® or midnight-blue fumé with sunburst pattern Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands
Centre seconds and AM/PM hands
Moon phase window
Hand-wound HMC 801 Manufacture calibre
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height: 6.5 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
28 jewels and screwed gold mounts
Power reserve: minimum 7-day with a double barrel
Bevelled ring and Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann Hairspring®
Traditional screw balance wheel with gold adjusting screws Gold escapement wheel and pallet fork
Hours and minutes
Centre seconds hand and hacking seconds
AM/PM indicator – Hours 12 to 6 o’clock representing AM and 7 to 11 o’clock representing PM Large moon-phase indicator display
Power reserve indicator on movement side
Moon-phase adjuster push-button on the case flank
Hand-stitched black leather or brown alligator leather
Steel or 18-carat 5N red gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo