German watch brand A. Lange & Sohne unveils its first all-new watch collection in 10 years (since the Zeitwerk came out in 2009). The Odysseus is packed with a host of firsts for the brand. To begin with, this sixth collection is the brand’s first steel watch in regular production. It is also the brand’s first fully integrated bracelet watch, and its first water resistant watch.
For its creation, A. Lange & Sohne has developed a new self-winding movement — L155.1 Datomatic — with a large day-of-week and date display. One of the things that makes the new caliber so different from other A. Lange & Sohne movements is the fact that it is equipped with a new escapement – one without a balance cock.
Inside the A. Lange & Sohne Odysseus
Developed completely in house, the L155.1 Datomatic manufacture caliber can be seen via a sapphire crystal caseback. Beating at 4 hertz, the movement is equipped with a skeletonized unidirectional winding central rotor with a centrifugal mass made of platinum.
When the watch is fully wound, the mainspring barrel provides up to 50 hours of power reserve. Four countersunk poising screws (flush with the outside of the balance-wheel rim) regulate the watch and reduce turbulence that could occur with the higher speed.
While A. Lange & Sohne is well known for its elaborately finished balance cocks, the oscillating system of Odysseus features a balance wheel bridge (secured at two points) with a hand-engraved wave pattern. The movement consists of 312 parts, as well as a 99-part mechanism that offers the outsized day and date indications. As with all A. Lange & Sohne watches, the entire movement is meticulously hand finished and assembled, disassembled and re-assembled to ensure excellence.
Design Aesthetics of the A. Lange &Sohne Odysseus
Designed to be the brand’s first real sports watch – albeit an elegant sports watch — the stainless steel Odysseus measures 40.5mm in diameter and boasts a fully integrated stainless steel bracelet. Additionally, the watch boasts a combination of brushed and polished surfaces. Tested to a pressure of 12 bar, the watch features a screw-down crown and a case water resistant to 120 meters. Even the tapered buttons for correcting the day and date (at 2:00 and 4;)0 on the case) are specially sealed.
The striking blue dial is made of brass and, as mentioned, offers an outsized Lange date via a double aperture on the right side, and a double-aperture day of week indication on the left side. The dial consists of several different layers to add depth and dimension to the watch. The outer scale of the subsidiary seconds dial and the notched baton appliques are made of white gold and feature concentric lines created using a technique called azurage.
The different finishes in blue for the center of the dial and the outer portions gives the dial an unparalleled richness. There is an outer flange with a printed minute scale on it, with the number 60 is printed in red (at 12:00).
The integrated stainless steel bracelet can be adjusted in small increments thanks to a deployant buckle.
We can imagine that this first Odysseus watch will be joined by others with varying dial colors down the road.Odysseus retails for $28,800 and joins the other five steadfast A. Lange & Sohne collections: Lange 1, Saconia, 1815, Richard Lange, Zeitwerk.
Technical Specs Odysseus, Ref. 363.179
Movement: Lange manufacture caliberL155.1 DATOMATIC, self-winding, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; unidirectional winding central rotor with platinum centrifugal mass; balance bridge engraved by hand, 312 parts, 31 jewels, Lever escapement, Shock-resistant balance with four poising screws; balance spring manufactured in-house with a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 hertz), precision beat adjustment with cam and whiplash spring, 50 hours power reserve when fully wound, movement dimensions: 32.9 mm wide x 6.2 mm high.
Functions: Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds dial with stop seconds; day-of-week and date displays
Screw-down crown for winding the watch and setting the time; two buttons for correcting the day of week and date
Case: Stainless steel, measuring 40.5 mm diameter, 11.1mm height; water resistant up to 12 bar (120 meters)
Dial: Brass, dark-blue White gold, hours and minutes luminous
Crystal: Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)
Bracelet: stainless steel, Safety deployant buckle with precision adjustment mechanism for adjusting the length