Manufacture Breguet, known for its stunning array of fine watches based on the genius of its namesake founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, has also garnered acclaim for its aviation timepieces, recognized for decades as one of the company’s many domains. Now, the legendary Type XX is gaining even more momentum with a new generation—its fourth—of timepieces that maintains the spirit of the original 1950s chronographs, but with a new caliber and contemporary appeal. Two variations, one military-inspired and one designed for the most discerning civilians, are making their debut, each drawing on nearly 70 years of history and four years of cutting-edge research and development.
Breguet’s New Caliber 728
Four years in the making, the new self-winding caliber 728 and its variation 7281 (military version) incorporate a variety of patent-enriched modern-chronograph attributes, such as a column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency and a zero-setting activation system. The balance spring, escape wheel and pallet-lever horns are made of silicon, which is corrosion resistant and impervious to magnetic fields, thereby improving the watches’ accuracy. The movement has a power reserve of 60 hours.
Its aesthetics are impeccable, with significant attention paid to the decoration, which is visible through the sapphire crystal casebacks. Sunburst patterns, snailing, beveling and circular graining and more are immediately noticeable on the components, while the column wheel has a black DLC treatment for visual contrast, while also improving function. The blackened oscillating weight is shaped like an Both models have a 42mm stainless steel case and feature a flyback function: the pusher at 2 o’clock commences the timing operation, while the one at 4 o’clock resets the chronograph to zero and ensures immediate restarting at a single press.
Breguet Type 20 – Chronographe 2057 – Military Version
This 339-component watch is inspired by a model delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959. Its black galvanic-treated dial features luminescent Arabic numerals, hands, and triangle on the fluted bi-directional bezel in mint green. The 30-minute totalizer is at 3 o’clock, while the 60-second totalizer is at 9 o’clock; the date window is between 4 and 5 o’clock.
The crown enables setting in three positions: one, neutral; two, date correction; and three, time setting. The watch comes with two interchangeable straps—one in calfskin and one in black NATO.
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 – Civilian Version
This 350-component timepiece is based on a model crafted in 1957. While this model also features a galvanic-treated dial, the 15-minute totalizer is at 3 o’clock, while the 12-hour totalizer is at 6 o’clock; running seconds are 9 o’clock and the date window is between 4 and 5 o’clock The Arabic numerals, hands and triangle on the engraved fluted bezel are luminescent, in beige.
As in its military version counterpart, the crown enables setting in three positions—and it, too, comes with both a calfskin strap and a black NATO strap. Both watches are delivered in a brown leather presentation box that recalls an aircraft wing.