A Closer Look: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Azure Blue

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar with azure blue dial.

Sometimes a new dial color is enough to make a familiar watch feel entirely different. Last week, I had the opportunity to go hands-on with Vacheron Constantin’s newest Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, with its striking new azure blue dial, unveiled in celebration of the 30th anniversary of the Overseas collection.

Just 200 pieces of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar will be made.

Limited to 200 pieces, the new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin pairs an 18-karat white gold case with an azure blue lacquered dial — a combination Vacheron Constantin has not previously offered in the collection. The change is subtle, but the result is striking

The color is really what sets this watch apart. It is lighter and less saturated than the intense blue dial Vacheron Constantin introduced to the Overseas collection in 2016. The softer azure color takes on different tones depending on the light and works particularly well against the cooler hue of white gold. Having seen and worn the watch, I think it is one of those colors that comes across even better on the wrist than it does in photographs.

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar will be sold with additional rubber straps in blue and white.

Of course, there is a lot more going on here than color. Measuring 41.5mm in diameter, the watch is just 8.1mm thick — remarkably slim for a watch housing a full perpetual calendar. Inside is Vacheron Constantin’s self-winding Caliber 1120 QP/1, itself just 4.05mm thick.

The perpetual calendar displays the date, day of the week, month and leap year, along with moon phases. It automatically takes into account months of 28, 30 and 31 days as well as leap years and, assuming the watch keeps running, won’t require a calendar correction until 2100. The movement offers approximately 40 hours of power reserve and is comprised of 276 components. It is also Geneva Seal certified.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar boasts an azure blue dial.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement is finished with Côtes de Genève, beveling and perlage, along with satin finishing on the calendar components. The 22-karat gold oscillating weight is engraved with a compass rose, a longtime nod to the travel theme of the Overseas collection.

The watch comes on an integrated white gold bracelet and is accompanied by two textured rubber straps, one white and one denim blue. Vacheron Constantin’s tool-free interchangeable system makes switching among them easy. Personally, I preferred the watch on the rubber straps. They give a more relaxed personality — but that’s just me.

Vacheron Constantin’s Manufacture builds every watch in house and each receives the Geneva Seal.

Introduced in 1996, the Overseas has evolved considerably over three decades, but its roots reach further back. Vacheron Constantin considers it the successor to the now-iconic 222, introduced in 1977 and an important early expression of the Maison’s sport-chic aesthetic. The current generation of the Overseas debuted in 2016 and has since expanded to encompass everything from straightforward time-only watches to high complications.

For its 30th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin hasn’t reinvented the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. It really didn’t need to but the fresh color, an appealing white-gold combination and the already-impressive ultra-thin perpetual calendar make this anniversary edition super cool.