I’ve been a fan of the German brand Tutima for years. In fact, even before the brand was able to set up its state-of-the-art Manufacture back in the Saxony region of Germany once the Berlin wall was down. I actually find that I am a fan of most German watch brands because I like the clean, functional appeal of the German aesthetic. Tutima, long known as an amazing pilot’s watch brand, has also made incredible strides in its classically elegant watchmaking, particularly with its Patria line. Now, the brand unveils an all-new Patria in Admiral Blue that is a real stunner.
Since I have known Tutima for so many years, I can honestly say that one thing this brand does right is color. Its blues are vibrant, its greens are radiant and its reds are spectacular in every shade from burgundy to racing red (more on that coming soon). With this in mind, when I heard the brand had an Admiral Blue 43mm stainless steel watch, I couldn’t wait to see it.
With a great blue enamel dial in a true Admiral’s hue with stainless steel hands and a steel-outlined subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock, this watch does not disappoint. Tutima captures German design at its best here. Additionally, the brand takes all of the details into consideration: an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a sapphire caseback for viewing the mechanical movement.
The watch is powered by the Manufacture Caliber Tutima 617 manual-wind movement with 20 jewels, three in screwed gold settings and an index-free oscillating system with Breguet hairspring, pierced balance-cock, Glashütte three-quarter plate and 65 hours of power reserve.The exquisite finishing includes Glashutte sunburst and skeltonized balance cock with hand-beveled edges.
To achieve the rich blue color, several individual layers of enamel — each followed by polishing — are required to arrive at an absolutely smooth and glossy surface. The watch is finished with a matching blue alligator strap. Perhaps the best thing about this watch is its great retail price: $5,900.