Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”
With Watches & Wonders 2026 in full swing now, we take a look at some of the brands that really wow us. Naturally, German brand A. Lange & Söhne is one of them. This brand typically only releases a few watches annually at the show and this year, I had a hard time deciding which one to write about first. In exciting news, it unveils the new Saxonia Annual Calendar watch with an all-new movement in two versions – both at what luxury watch collectors might deem an “accessible” price point for the brand (approximately 58,500 euro). Then, it also releases the new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen in platinum. This is the one we are discussing here first, as it is a multi-complicated new movement and stunning rendition of these functions and features.
The new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen marks something more than just another high complication release for A. Lange & Söhne—it signals a clear evolution of the Lumen concept into a more technically ambitious and decidedly modern direction. It represents years of research and development, culminating in a watch that unites two of watchmaking’s most demanding complications—a tourbillon with stop seconds and a perpetual calendar with a peripheral month ring—within the unmistakable Lange 1 architecture.
Crafted in platinum, the A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen watch has multiple firsts, including concepts meant to enhance the lumen.
The watch is powered by the newly developed manufacture caliber L225.1, comprised of 685 individual components, all assembled twice to ensure ultimate precision and reliability. This obsessive approach to construction and verification underscores A. Lange & Sohne’s philosophy of uncompromising execution, particularly in a watch that also integrates instantaneous calendar switching and a highly complex display system – including the first luminous moonphase display for the brand. The movement is visible from both dial side and caseback, reinforcing the balance between mechanical depth and visual clarity.
One of the most significant technical evolutions in this piece lies in the tourbillon architecture itself. The tourbillon cage and cock are crafted in stainless steel finished with a black polish rather than German silver, a first for the brand. The mirror-like finish is accomplished thanks to a laborious polishing technique using abrasive pastes. It is an artisanal work resulting in a jet-black appeal. Even the chamfered edges require meticulous work and patience.
Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” boasts a transparent sapphire crystal case back.
The perpetual calendar is equally sophisticated, featuring a peripheral month ring, retrograde day-of-week display, outsize date, moon phase, and leap-year indication. All indications switch instantaneously, ensuring absolute legibility and mechanical decisiveness at each transition. Importantly, all displays are luminous, including elements traditionally considered purely functional such as the outsize date, leap-year aperture, and even the moon-phase display, which introduces a new day/night sky simulation with luminous stars that shift atmospheric tone across a 24-hour cycle.
The semi-transparent dial allows UV light to charge the luminous elements beneath, resulting in a layered visual effect that is active both in daylight and darkness. The familiar Lange 1 asymmetry remains intact, but it is now enhanced by greater depth, contrast, and dimensionality.
In typical A. Lange & Sohne style, every detail is taken into consideration both inside the case and out. Movement plates are decorated with perlage, levers with straight graining and black-polished steel components are sharply edged and hand-engraved. The tourbillon cock and intermediate-wheel cock, engraved with stars and a shooting star motif, add a discreet but deeply human signature to an otherwise highly engineered system.
The new movement of the A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen consists of 685 individually hand finished and assembled (twice) parts.
From a performance standpoint, the tourbillon operates at 21.,600 semi-oscillations per hour and is paired with a balance spring manufactured in-house for optimal precision. The stop-seconds mechanism allows for exact time-setting. A centrally mounted rotor in 18-karat white gold – another first for the brand — with a platinum centrifugal mass ensures efficient winding and delivers a 50-hour power reserve.
The watch is housed in a 41.9mm platinum case with a height of 13.0mm and is paired with a black hand-stitched alligator strap. Limited to just 50 pieces, it underscores its exclusivity while also positioning itself as a technical flagship for the Lumen line. It retails for 585,000 euros (approximately $630,000 USD).
