Revival of the Fittest: A Closer Look At The New Urban Jurgensen

Urban Jürgensen, one of watchmaking’s most storied names, is back. The Danish-rooted brand, founded in the 18th century and revered for its elegant designs and technical sophistication, has been quietly reborn under new ownership. Now co-owned by the American Rosenfield family and independent watchmaking master Kari Voutilainen — who holds a minority stake — Urban Jürgensen is entering a bold new chapter.

For me, this is personal. After four decades covering the watch industry, I’ve had a front-row seat to the brand’s earlier rebirths. I vividly remember the period when Voutilainen was first brought on in the 1990s to help reenergize Urban Jürgensen under the direction of then-owner Peter Baumberger. At the time, the results were nothing short of extraordinary: elegant, handmade wristwatches and pocket watches that paired traditional aesthetics with mechanical innovation — long before the era of micro-brands, long before CNC technology revolutionized movement making and more.

That’s why I’m genuinely thrilled to see Urban Jürgensen back in the spotlight — and in such good hands. The brand’s resurrection began quietly in 2021, when financier and watch collector Andy Rosenfield acquired it with a vision of bringing it into a new age without erasing its history. A long-time admirer of Voutilainen’s work (and a watch collector who owns several of Kari’s watches), Rosenfield brought the Finnish watchmaker into the fold, alongside his own son, Alex, as co-CEOs. The Rosenfields hold a majority 85% share in the company, with the remaining ownership divided between Voutilainen and a small group of his close collaborators.

Their mission? To build watches that speak to both tradition and modernity, to craftsmanship and community — all while remaining scarce and special. Under the motto, Time well spent, the initial offering consists of three  wristwatches that range in price from $105,000 to approximately $400,000.

Three models are each created in extremely limited numbers (75) and powered by in-house movements. Two feature Voutilainen’s signature technical codes — including a direct impulse escapement and a free-sprung balance — refined specifically for the brand. The third, a perpetual calendar developed in partnership with another high-level independent, brings additional mechanical depth to the lineup.

Leading the lineup is the anniversary watch, the UJ 1, a showcase of classical watchmaking elevated to the highest levels. Priced at CHF 368,000, this watch is available in three variations — platinum with a silver dial, platinum with a gray dial, and rose gold with a silver dial — with just 25 of each configuration. The piece pays homage to the brand’s heritage, specifically inspired by the historical Pratt Oval Pocket Watch. The case design and details nod to that archival masterpiece, while the movement inside is anything but dated: a tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité escapement, which compensates for the effects of gravity on timekeeping and ensures constant force for optimal precision. The dials are hand-finished on vintage rose-engine lathes — a technique mastered by few and executed entirely by hand.

The UJ 2, retailing for CHF 105,000, is a study in refined minimalism. At first glance a simple three-hander, it is anything but. Beneath the surface lies a manually wound movement designed in-house, echoing Voutilainen’s technical DNA, and finished to an uncompromising standard. The result is a watch of exceptional purity and subtle complexity — timeless and contemporary at once.

Rounding out the trio is the UJ 3, a perpetual calendar with instantaneous date, day, and month changes at midnight. This watch was developed in collaboration with master independent Andreas Strehler, and includes a moonphase accurate to within one day every 14,000 years. It is priced at CHF 168,000, and like its siblings, is limited to 75 pieces.

From a design perspective, Voutilainen has introduced a new case and lug architecture that honors the past while offering better ergonomics — especially for those with smaller wrists. The goal, it seems, is both continuity and comfort.

These aren’t timepieces built for mass production. They’re meant for collectors who appreciate the interplay of art, engineering, and emotion. That said, the Rosenfields have made clear they want the brand to feel welcoming. This isn’t about gatekeeping horology — it’s about sharing it, whether someone is a seasoned collector or simply someone who connects with the aesthetic and story.

Meanwhile, the brand’s message — encapsulated in the campaign tagline “Time Well Spent” — underscores a deeper narrative. Shot by renowned photographer Ellen von Unwerth, the campaign features individuals immersed in their passions, from sailing to painting to cooking. And somewhere in each scene, an Urban Jürgensen watch appears — subtle, quiet, yet undeniably present.

After years of silence, the brand is once again finding its voice. This isn’t a brand rebooted for trend’s sake. It’s a resurrection rooted in respect — for craft, for heritage, and for time itself. And with the combined vision of the Rosenfields and the horological mastery of Kari Voutilainen, Urban Jürgensen may be entering its most exciting era yet.