IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph in Armor Gold®
IWC Schaffhausen’s latest addition to the Portugieser line is a technical and material feat. The new Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph (Ref. IW394009), limited to just 100 pieces and priced at $145,000, combines three high complications—a flying minute tourbillon, a retrograde date display, and a flyback chronograph. Additionally, the watch boasts a newly executed 43.5 mm case made from the brand’s proprietary 18-karat Armor Gold® — marking the first time this alloy has been used in a Portugieser case. It also features an obsidian-hued dial that was first released last year in another collection.
In fact, IWC introduced the Obsidian hue in 2024 as part of a refreshed palette of dial colors inspired by celestial transitions (alongside Horizon Blue, Dune, and Silver Moon). While not new in concept, the execution here reaches new levels of refinement. The dial is produced through a 60-step process, including the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer, which results in extraordinary depth and a near three-dimensional effect. Gold-plated hands and solid gold appliques add richness, while the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock provides a compelling focal point.
Just 100 pieces of the IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph in Armor Gold® will be made.
From the dial side, the tourbillon, as mentioned, is at 6:00, while the flyback chronograph totalizer is at 12:00, and the retrograde date is at 9:00. The retrograde date hands sweep on an arc from 1 to 31 before snapping back at the end of each month—a dynamic motion that reinforces the watch’s sense of mechanical vitality.
IWC and Armor Gold(R)
As to the case material of the new IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph, it is crafted in Armor Gold®, an alloy created using an enhanced microstructure that offers significantly greater hardness and resistance to wear than standard 5N rose gold. It retains the deep, warm tone of traditional gold, but with a level of durability that better withstands scratches and daily use. The case, pushers, crown, and even the folding clasp are all crafted from this material, reinforcing the technical character of this otherwise classic design.
The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph in Armor Gold® retails for $145,000.
The movement powering the watch is Caliber 89900, an automatic chronograph with 56-part flying tourbillon with stop-seconds mechanism to allow for precise setting of time to the second. The movement utilizes high-tech materials, including a silicon pallet lever and escape wheel treated with IWC’s Diamond Shell® coating. This coating reduces friction, improving efficiency.
It boasts a solid gold oscillating weight visible via a transparent sapphire case back that also showcases the Geneva stripes, circular graining, and other fine finishing techniques. The watch offers 68 hours of power reserve.
As mentioned, just 100 pieces will be made, each retailing for $145,000.
