Why I’m Excited About The Watch World’s First Concours d’ Élégance Horlogère

Having been a car lover since my young teens, I have always been fascinated by the great automotive concours d’élégance events, where extraordinary vintage cars are celebrated not simply for their beauty, but for their history, rarity, originality and preservation.  In recent years, especially with so many brands establishing their own vintage restoration and resale departments, I’ve wondered why the watch world didn’t have something similar to the luxury automotive world. After all, exceptional timepieces have many of the same attributes as collectible automobiles, including remarkable engineering, distinctive design and fascinating histories. Now, thanks to Vacheron Constantin and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, the watch world has its first Concours d’Élégance Horlogère.

In less than two weeks, on November 10, the winners of this inaugural competition will be announced in Geneva. Getting to this point, however, has been an extraordinary undertaking, involving more than 550 submitted watches, extensive authentication and evaluation, and the difficult task of narrowing the field to just 34 finalists in seven categories.

I know the intricacies of the long journey to get to this point in the competition not only from my interviews and articles about the event and the watches, but also because I had the privilege of experiencing the process from another perspective: as one of the jurors selected for this inaugural event.

I have been enthusiastic about this initiative since it was first announced earlier this year. Not only does it offer a new way to recognize exceptional watches from the past, but it also brings collectors into the spotlight, celebrating the people who have preserved these horological treasures for future generations. But I can tell you that while the opportunity has been exciting, the task itself has been anything but easy.

From More Than 550 Watches To 34 Finalists

As mentioned, collectors from around the world were invited to submit Vacheron Constantin pocket watches and wristwatches made between 1755 and 1999. More than 550 watches were entered across seven categories: Chronographs, Métiers d’Art, Chronomètre Royal, Astronomical Complications, Multiple Complications, Design and Chiming Mechanisms.

Following an extensive examination by Vacheron Constantin’s master watchmakers and Heritage experts, an initial selection of 95 watches was presented to the international jury for consideration. Now, that number has been narrowed to 34 finalists. It is an extraordinary group of timepieces, representing vastly different periods in watchmaking history and a remarkable range of technical and artistic achievements.

For me, one of the greatest challenges was trying to narrow down my choices when there were so many deserving watches. How does one weigh an extraordinary technical complication against a watch whose significance lies in its design, rarity or provenance? How does one compare watches created decades, or even centuries, apart?

I could easily have selected seven or eight watches in each category. Knowing that every piece had already undergone a rigorous initial selection made the task even more difficult. Of course, that is also part of what makes this competition so interesting.

It isn’t simply about identifying the most complicated or most valuable watches. It is about recognizing the many different qualities that make a timepiece exceptional.

Bringing Horological Treasures Into The Spotlight

Another reason I am particularly enthusiastic about the concours is the opportunity it presents to uncover watches that have remained largely out of public view.

When I first interviewed Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s Style and Heritage Director, and Paul Boutros of Phillips about the competition earlier this year, they spoke about the possibility of bringing rare and sometimes nearly forgotten watches back into the spotlight.

One of the watches they specifically hoped would surface was an exceptionally rare 1957 Vacheron Constantin world-time wristwatch equipped with a Louis Cottier mechanism. Well, it did. That very watch, Reference 6213, is now among the 34 finalists.

To me, this is one of the most rewarding aspects of the entire initiative. Beyond recognizing exceptional watches, the concours is helping to reveal pieces that even seasoned collectors and historians may seldom have had the opportunity to see.

The 34 finalists will be exhibited at the Hôtel Président Wilson in Geneva from November 4 through 8, during the Phillips autumn auction week. It is a rare opportunity for the public to view these privately owned timepieces together before they return to their owners. I plan to be there early – even before our final judging on November 10 – so I can ogle each and every one for as long as I want.

Then on November 10, the jury will cast its final votes. Seven winning watches will be revealed, with the possibility of an additional Best in Show award.

A New Tradition For Watchmaking?

With its uninterrupted history dating back to 1755, Vacheron Constantin is particularly well suited to this inaugural undertaking. And the involvement of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo adds another dimension, bringing together the worlds of watchmaking heritage, collecting and scholarship. I am looking forward to being in Geneva for this historic occasion and to sharing the results and my impressions afterward.

For now, though, I think the fact that more than 550 watches were submitted for consideration speaks volumes about the passion of the collecting community and the importance of preserving watchmaking history. Whether this inaugural concours becomes a lasting tradition remains to be seen. But I, for one, hope it does.