Hiroshi Fujiwara Talks About The New TAG Heuer Carrera Collaboration That Hits A Collector Sweet Spot

As watch brands close out 2025, only a handful manage to do so with genuine resonance. TAG Heuer is one of them, thanks to its third collaboration with Japanese streetwear pioneer Hiroshi Fujiwara, founder of Fragment Design. This latest effort revisits one of the brand’s most emblematic models—the Carrera Chronograph—reimagined with the contemporary Glass Box crystal and Fujiwara’s unmistakably restrained aesthetic.

Limited to 500 pieces and priced at just about  $10,000, the Carrera Chronograph x Fragment sold through almost immediately after its announcement. That alone speaks volumes. But spending time with the watch, and the designer,  in person makes it clear why this particular collaboration landed so decisively with collectors.

What struck me first is the depth of the black-on-black dial and subdials. It isn’t flat or monotone; it’s rich, layered and purposeful. Against that darkness, the polished silver markers and crisp white accents stand out with clarity, while the white tachymeter scale beneath the domed sapphire crystal adds a surprising sense of lightness. It’s a beautifully judged contrast—one that blends Fujiwara’s minimalist, street-smart sensibility with TAG Heuer’s racing heritage in a way that feels effortless rather than forced.

Fujiwara, a DJ and hip-hop musician turned designer—often referred to as the godfather of streetwear—has always been candid about the realities of designing watches.

“With watches there are only a few options to change. You can work with color,  logo placements, or other small changes but not big ones that are technical. I know I can’t change the shape, for instance. I know that from having worked with them in the past, so for this one I was prepared,”  he said during a private interview.

When TAG Heuer approached him to design a third watch—following the 2018 Carrera and the 2020 Autavia—Fujiwara immediately connected with the Carrera Chronograph Glass Box. Its raised sapphire crystal and vintage undertones played directly into his design instincts.

“The Glass Box design is cool and I knew exactly what I wanted to do with it,” he said. “I love working with vintage looks and so it was a  really quick design for me. And, okay, it isn’t a watch for the fashion people so much; it isn’t a bling watch; it’s one that maybe can speak to the watch lovers, the collectors.”

That intent is evident throughout. The 39mm stainless steel case wears beautifully, paired with a seven-row steel bracelet whose black PVD-coated center links were among the most technically challenging elements to perfect. TAG Heuer spent considerable time refining the process to ensure long-term durability—an often overlooked but critical detail for collectors who actually wear their watches.

Fujiwara’s signature restraint appears again in the subtleties: the date window at 12 o’clock reveals Fragment’s double lightning bolt logo only on the 1st and 11th of each month, while the Fragment name itself appears discreetly above 6 o’clock. It’s branding that whispers rather than shouts.

Flip the watch over and the sapphire caseback reveals TAG Heuer’s TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement, with its shield-shaped rotor, column wheel, vertical clutch and an impressive 80-hour power reserve.

Perhaps the strongest endorsement came not from marketing, but from experience. While in Miami, a couple of colleagues liked the watch so much that they purchased theirs on the spot—and were lucky enough to have Fujiwara personally sign their watch boxes. Moments like that underscore what this collaboration represents: a watch that resonates deeply with seasoned collectors while still appealing to Fragment’s street-savvy followers through its colorway, clean design and modern Glass Box execution.

This Carrera x Fragment doesn’t try to be everything to everyone—and that’s precisely why it works.

Portions of this article by Roberta Naas first appeared in Forbes.com.