Last year for its July Grand Exhibition in New York, Patek Philippe unveiled an amazing USA-exclusive watch that left many non-American clients incredibly jealous: Ref. 5531 New York Special Edition. With a patented movement, the watch became the first ever minute repeater to chime the time in any city on the world time chapter ring. Now, for Baselworld 2018, Patek Philippe Unveils the CHF 495,000 World Time Ref 5531R housing the same movement but with a stunning enamel dial that is part of the brand’s regular collection (although it will be limited in production just by the sheer amount of time it takes to create one watch).
The Ref. 5531R watch houses the brand’s proprietary Caliber R 27 HU, an ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement with minute repeater with local-time strike, world time in 24 time zones and local time. The 462-part movement with 22-karat gold rotor fully recessed into the movement has a patent application for its ability to control the hour strike to a one-second accuracy via the 24-hour display. This timepiece marks the first time (excluding the Ref. 5531 New York Special Edition) Patek Philippe has placed the gongs of the repeater on the baseband instead of on the plate in order to achieve better sound. The watch strikes the local time instead of the home time, and is set to the respective time zone via a separate pusher. The city ring is shown in black and white to offer day/night indication.
The dial of the new watch is an incredible cloisonné enamel painting of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lavaux vineyard terrace on Lake Geneva. In this type of painting, the artist shapes the scene with thin strips of gold and then paints within the strips — working in many layers of color to achieve the perfect finished look. This dial presents a scene wherein a sailboat seems to be out at sunset thanks to the rose-hued and blue colors of the sky, water and mountains. The rose-gold hour hand that indicates the local time is inspired by the Southern Cross constellation. The 18-karat rose gold 45mm case has skeletonized lugs and features a hand-guilloche’ hobnail partner on the flanks and on the repeater slide. In typical Patek Philippe style, the crown sports the Calatrava cross. While this is a large timepiece at 45mm, it is such a coup that women may want to wear it, as well.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5531R World Time Minute Repeater Technical Specifications:
Movement: Caliber R 27 HU
Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement. Minute repeater with local-time strike. 24 time zones. Local time. Movement Diameter:32 mm (basic caliber: 30 mm; World Time module: 32 mm); height: 8.5 mm (basic caliber: 5.2 mm; World Time module: 3.3 mm). Components: 462 parts, 45 jewels. 48 hours of power reserve. 22-karat gold minirotor, Gyromax balance, Spiromax (in Silinvar) balance spring, adjustable balance spring stud. Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz).
Displays: With hands: • Center hours and minutes; With disks: • City disk with 24 place names • 24-hour disk
Functions: Two-position crown: • Pushed home: To wind the watch • Pulled out: To set the time
Pushers: Time-zone pusher at 2 o’clock (local time setting in 1-hour increments)
Minute repeater actuation: Slide in left-hand case flank
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Case: 18K rose gold 5N; Sapphire-crystal display back and interchangeable solid-gold back, Case protected against moisture and dust, not water-resistant
Case Dimensions: Diameter 10 to 4 o’clock: 42 mm; Width 9 to 3 o’clock: 43.83 mm; Length across lugs: 47.35 mm
Height (crystal to lugs): 12.08 mm Height (crystal to case back): 11.49 mm Width between lugs: 21 mm
Dial: City disk in German silver, lacquered opaline silvery white with place names printed in black
• 24-hour disk in 18K rose gold 5N, day hours engraved and brown tinted – engraved sun symbol, night hours and moon symbol engraved in brown background; • Center 18K gold, cloisonné enamel with polychrome depiction of Lavaux landscape on Lake Geneva; • Hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold, lapped, hour hand with “Southern Cross” silhouette, pierced
Strap: Alligator leather with large square scales, hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown, fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold
Price: CHF 495,000